EATING BRAIN IN PARIS (AND OTHER REALLY COOL THINGS)

Paris is the city of many things: love, light, cigarettes, and… cow brains? Yes, that’s right. And I want first dibs. Cervelles de veau isn’t the sole reason I traveled to Paris, but I’d be lying if I said it didn’t heavily influence my stay.

Let’s rewind a little, shall we?

Our journey began sleep deprived in CDG, which might be the worst airport I’ve ever traveled through (there is no way to connect through terminals, so you have to clear security every time, which is very difficult for standby traveling as flight attendants). Unbeknownst to us ignorant Americans, the entire city was on strike due to parliament’s decision to try and raise the retirement age. This meant reduced train schedules and even moodier Parisians.

While the airport is friendly to English speakers, brushing up on your French can help immensely as you navigate multiple terminal trains to find the direct line to Paris. I also recommend finding a hotel near a local train line, as you’ll be utilizing public transport quite a bit. Ride share apps do exist in France, but taking a train will help familiarize you with the city. Plus, you’ll get to live like a local this way AND save money. The Metro is around $3 USD, while ride shares range $20+.

We opted into the Hotel Elysa Luxembourg, a quaint, very Parisian style of stay, with wrought-iron balconies overlooking the bustling streets. I was fortunate enough to book our stay with my Atmos Rewards through Alaska Airlines (yes, this is a shameless plug). Even though the room was a bit small for three people, the views were phenomenal and the included breakfast made our stay worth every second. The staff was extremely friendly, as well, letting us keep our board bags and luggage in their lobby until we could check in at 3 p.m.

DAY ONE

Freed from the constraints of luggage, we took to the streets of Paris and enjoyed:

1) Legay Choc: A queer-friendly bakery, specializing in phallic-shaped pastries. The price ranges were budget friendly, ranging from $3-10 USD.
2) Rue du Pont-Neuf: A luxury street nestled between Louis Vuitton, a (temporary) Yayoi Kusama 20-foot statue, and the Pont-Neuf bridge. The statue was in collaboration with the brand and highlights her bizarre, often alienating work.
3) Sainte-Chapelle: Once the house for royals in France, this 13th Century chapel exudes history amidst the modernized parts of Paris. According to the website, the Crown of Thorns and fragment of the True Cross call this palace home today. Tour tickets start at $20 USD.
4) The Sein: 483 miles of river runs through northern France and was a beautiful piece of country to enjoy as we walked the streets of Paris.
5) Le Danton: A little brasserie near a local university. We were sat next to the window with stellar people-watching views. Though, we were probably the ones being watched, being overtly American in mannerisms and style. I highly recommend a glass of the Côtes de Bourg Bourdeaux paired with the beef tartare. The tartare came in such a generous portion, had I not been deprived of food for 24-hours, I wouldn’t have been able to finish it.
6) Café Le Censier: This quaint and cozy restaurant sits on the corner of Rue Monge and offers small bites, as well as a beautiful wine menu. We wanted to end our night with a bottle and chose the Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux for $43 USD. Because when in France, we drink French.

DAY TWO

I gotta say, nothing makes one feel more European than watching the sunrise above 13th Century architecture on your Parisian balcony with an espresso in hand; it was hard to tear ourselves away, but our last day had a full itinerary and we had work to do (and a cow brain to consume):

1) La Diva des Prés: A very trendy spot, equipped with floral ceilings, and an absurd amount of pink lighting. Our cappuccinos came served in a stemmed-crystal glass, as well as stamped foam, reading, “Have A Good Day.” Because of the aesthetic, you do pay higher prices. The menu ranges from $15-90 USD.
2) The Louvre/Pavillon de Flore: Not ones for touring museums, we opted out of standing in hour long lines, and instead, people watched and joined in the procession of getting the shot near the pyramid. We were in awe of how long the Pavillon de Flore has been around – over 400 years – and how fortunate we were to be standing on historic grounds. Tickets to enter the museum are a little over $20 USD with rotating exhibits throughout the year.
3) Eiffel Tower: Is this a gorgeous piece of architecture? Absolutely. Is it completely overrated? Yes. While the tourist in all of us came for the photo, we didn’t spend more than a moments time, considering the lawn was packed and a lot of the grounds were fenced in. You can find many vendors around with pastries and coffee for sale, if you’re dying of hunger/thirst from walking all day. Tickets sell fast, so book them in advance. Ground to top tickets are the most expensive – roughly $45 USD. You can also book dining within the two restaurants the tower has to offer, Madame Brasserie, and, Le Jules Verne. The latter is a second-story beaut with a menu curated by Michelin-star chef Frédéric Anton, and the former is on the first floor, run by Chef Thierry Marx. Prices range $100+ USD. In the future, we were recommended to find a spot along the Seine and bring our own bottles of wine for a less crowded view.
4) Le Clown Bar: The crown jewel of Paris for me. I had been looking forward to trying the cervelles de veau for months, and was not disappointed. I had to make reservations two months in advance for outdoor seating, because the buzz of uniqueness will always drive crowds. Le Clown Bar hosts just a small amount of patrons – 50 to be exact – and has a small, expertly-crafted menu. The dish was served in a dashi broth with ginger and garlic (similar in taste to Hainan chicken), and had the texture of butter, as it was meant to be spread on toasted bread. I highly recommend this dish! If brain isn’t your forte, you can find fish, foie gras, select cheeses, beignets, beef croquettes, and desserts. Because the menu uses all natural ingredients, the wine provided was natural, as well. We enjoyed a bottle of the Nicolas Carmarans Fer de Sang 2018. Our total bill came out to $200 USD. Be prepared to spend money for the both the experience and the cuisine.