DO YOU COME FROM A LAND DOWN UNDER?

What happens when you put seven women with flight benefits together? Last minute plans to Sydney, Australia, that’s what.

It all started when one of my good friends in Sydney purchased Knotfest tickets for us. But, I couldn’t go to Australia just for Slipknot – that wouldn’t have been a good use of my time. I asked a few close friends if they wanted to join me, was met with a resoundingly unanimous, “YES,” and a trip was born.

After meeting in the airport, shuttling to East Coast Car Rentals (conveniently located four minutes away), and piling into our MASSIVE 11-passenger van, we were ready to head to our massive Bexley Airbnb. All I needed to do was learn how to drive opposite of how we do in America. And how lucky were we that it was pouring rain in the evening?! Thankfully, our accommodation was a short, 10-minute drive away, and I got us there safely. If you are thinking of renting a car, make sure to obtain an International Driver’s License if yours is not in English. I made sure to register for one at AAA, just in case – plus, it’s valid for an entire year! You can fill out an application online here; you’ll need to pay the $30 fee, as well as provide a digital photo for processing. Give yourself at least two weeks for processing and delivery. If you need the license sooner, you can go into any AAA office and have them expedite the process for you.

My overall opinion of Sydney is that it’s the most minute sliver of what Australia has to offer. While I had a lot of fun, I wish we would have ventured to other parts of the island to immerse ourselves in more culture. If being in a big city entices you, then you’ll have plenty to do in Sydney. Think New York, LA, or London.

FOOD & DRINK

1) Cafe 959 Kogarah: Compliments to the chef, the baker, the espresso maker. Every item on the menu came fresh to our table with attention to detail and craft. Though small, Cafe 959 is mighty. A few of our favorites were the smavo stack, the banana bread, and the quinoa/feta fritters.

2) Culture Bean Cafe: Located right next to Cafe 959, Culture Bean was a great second stop for us to re-up on coffee for the rest of our day. And because the menu looked so delicious, we returned the following day. Make sure to try the Benedict for its incredible hollandaise, and the lamb salad for the generous meat portions.

3) Mr. Wong: THE most divine stop for food and drinks on our trip. I have nothing but good things to say about this Cantonese restaurant in the heart of downtown Sydney. From the staff to the ambience, every corner of this restaurant had me in awe. We were even led to our seats through a secret door via attached speakeasy (below). Split a bottle of the Polloi Shiraz before basking in the glory of artisan dim sum, including prawn and chives with black roe, xiao long bao (soup dumplings), various siu mai, as well as peking duck and (properly spicy) mapo tofu. You do not want to skip a visit here. Trust me.

4) Palmer & Co: The aforementioned speakeasy with kitschy, American prohibition vibes, even our staff came clad in newsboy hats and corseted gowns. The dimly lit atmosphere immediately transported us to the hush-hush 1920’s. You can find light snacks on the menu like steak tartare Doritos and charcuterie, but the heavy-pours are really what you seek. I highly recommend the Corpse Reviver #2, the Knickerbocker, and the New York Sazerac.

5) Espressorico: On my morning runs to Brighton Le-Sands Beach, I would find myself having to skirt around a long line of people at the window to this local coffee shop. Though I never took the time to dine in, there is plenty of seating inside for one to enjoy a menu of chili labneh eggs, Dukkah eggs, Benedict, and more. If you’re going for a quick coffee, stop by their window and try the silky flat white; I couldn’t get enough.

6) Mootch & Me: Another local stop on my runs, though I preferred the coffee at Espressorico. Hit up Mootch & Me for their breakfast sandwiches, including my favorite, the Princess Roll, with onion jam and peri peri mayonnaise.

7) Bondi Surf Seafoods: If you’re looking for quality seafood and affordable prices, you’ll be pleased to know Australia does not play. Though touristy, Bondi boasts a vibrant beach culture, which includes freshly caught delicacies like lobster, mussels, and Tasmanian salmon. The best part of this no-frills joint is getting to see and pick exactly what seafood you want. Other choices include fish and chips, as well as fried calamari rings. Get your meal to go and set-up a picnic right across the street on Bondi Beach.

8) Salty’s Bondi: Marketed as an, “endless summer,” establishment, Salty’s will transport you to immaculate times when the sun beats down on your skin and the air tastes of ocean’s umami. We stopped here after a long day basking in the sand to rehydrate with tasty margaritas from their extensive menu. You can order bottomless margs, or opt for one of nine variations. My favorites were the Aperol Margarita and She’s A Scorcher with house-made, chili-infused agave.

9) Smoke Bar: Recommended to me by a Hinge prospect, Smoke Bar had all the elements of upscale, new-age glamour: clean lines and steel architecture set in contrast to Sydney Harbour’s timeless sparkle. We were greeted by a lively Friday crowd dancing to tropical house beats. Some of my favorites included the tuna taco with yuzu amarillo, the chicken karaage, and the oysters. The best part was getting to watch the sunset with a glass of red and really good company.

10) The Caterpillar Club: What happens at the Caterpillar Club most certainly makes headlines the next day. Though veiled with elements of classy, jazz club, this bustling establishment is nothing but trouble after 10 p.m. If you come early enough, you can snag a table for views of the live music, otherwise you’ll be left with standing room – trust me, it gets packed during the weekend. Don’t leave without kissing at least two strangers, taking a shot of bottom-shelf liquor, or trying the chicken liver parfait.

11) Opera Bar: I can’t think of a better way to spend Sunday afternoon than outside on the Sydney Harbour with a marching band serenading the crowd and a Bloody Mary nursing my hangover. Situated against the Circle of Quay, Opera Bar is one of many outdoor choices for food and drink. Thankfully, no reservations were required and despite the volume of people, we were seated within 10 minutes of checking in. You can order from a server if you’re dining, or just walk up to either bar (inside or outside) for drinks. Because of how lively the restaurant was, it was easy to make friends with the people seated near us, and if you’re not traveling for the camaraderie, what are you doing?

12) The Butler: A Sydney local gave us this recommendation after hitting it off with one of the girls. We met him and his mother here to unwind after Opera Bar. The airy space was quiet, which was nice for enjoying conversation after screaming and singing on the Harbour. Because I love orange wine, I forced a bottle upon us and recommend you try the same, if you find yourself here. We had the Italian Plastic ‘Golden’ Semillon – a light, refreshing wine with floral and tangerine notes.

13) Meat District Co: If you’ve read about my obsession with trying odd foods abroad, then you’ll know I absolutely had to try kangaroo while in Australia. Other than specialty meat markets, I was very limited on options where I could find prepared kangaroo. Meat District Co. was one of the only restaurants that came up for me in my Google search. Sadly, I was underwhelmed by the overall dish, due to lack of seasoning and a mediocre texture. I’m not sure if this is true for all kangaroo, but I wouldn’t recommend having it here. Instead, try enjoying their crocodile burger with mango chutney or the slow-roasted pork.

14) Royal Palace Seafood Restaurant: Even though Sydney is predominantly white, it does have a beautiful Chinese culture in the midst of the lack thereof. During the Gold Rush of the 1800’s, an influx of Chinese migrants found their way to Sydney and have since been drawn to the continent for a variety of reasons. We found ourselves journeying through Chinatown one afternoon and stumbled upon Royal Palace. The amazing smell captured our stomachs and roped us in. You absolutely have to spend an afternoon here sampling a bit of everything on the menu (yes, even the chicken feet).

15) Pocket Bar Terrigal: After spending all day playing around the Central Coast, we agreed to do some shopping and dining in Terrigal before heading back to Sydney. Pocket Bar had a little bit of everything on the menu and a really fun vibe, so we parked our tired bodies inside for a few hours. We ordered the Brussel sprouts, chipotle beef tacos, southern fried chicken burger, and the corn riblets – not a single item disappointed; I would return in a heartbeat.

16) The Grounds of Alexandria Cafe: The Grounds of Alexandria is a huge, outdoor space that includes a cafe, as well as spaces for rent and lush gardens to walk through. If you are going to dine at the cafe, reservations are very necessary, as it is bustling during peak hours. The menu is extensive featuring my favorite, the shakshuka, as well as omelettes, pancakes, burgers, tacos, and more pastries than you can imagine. We opted to share the almond croissant and strawberry pistachio cake with decadent cappuccinos. If your sweet tooth is as problematic as mine, you’ll be happy to know I was placed into a sugar coma shortly after closing our tab.

BEACHES

I am, and always will be, someone who craves being in/near the ocean. Because Australia has over 11,000 beaches, I was able to find my happy place each of the seven days we were in Sydney. Below is a list (in favorite order) and photos of where we got to visit. If you have other recommendations for the next time I visit Australia, feel free to write via email at this end of this post. And, if you got to dive The Great Barrier Reef, I want to hear all about it!

1) Bullimah Beach

2) Putty Beach

3) Bondi Beach

4) Brighton Le Sands Beach

OTHER

If you’re interested in branching outside of food and drink/beach culture, check out these other notable spots (Sydney boasts a huge outdoor scene with hundreds of hiking/walking trails that we didn’t get to experience, so if you have favorites, I’d love to hear about them).

1) High St. Hire: If you’re in need of a formal dress for a night out, etc, you can rent from a selection of locally curated designers. You can either walk-in and have a staff member style you or find a design online and reserve it for the amount of time you need; it’s best to reserve in advance, so the fit doesn’t book for the date you need. Each dress is a set price, usually within the $$$ range, and is available for 4 or 8 date periods. Bring the dress back in person to the Brighton location, or place it in the provided satchel bag with return label. High St. Hire came in so clutch for me, as I was desperate to find a fit for our Saturday evening out. I chose a Benni Australia dress in red for four days at $130 USD. Even though I was a last minute walk-in, the wonderful staff happily helped me out. I’ll never stop raving about this business model; I wish we had more of these in the US.

2) Alcohol Free Zones: In the neighborhood we stayed, Brexley, we couldn’t help but notice posted signs reading, “Alcohol Free Zones,” every few blocks. The zones weren’t bigger than a greenbelt or small park, which led us to wonder what possible reasons they were necessary. Historically, Australia has tried to prevent, “anti-social behavior and alcohol-related crime,” by limiting drinking to designated venues. Not everyone can afford bar culture, and this led a lot of arrests being – disproportionately – poor and homeless people. In 2016, The City of Sydney started a review of the zones and it is still being reviewed today.

3) Sydney Opera House & Harbour Bridge: I would be remiss if I didn’t include the tourist traps of Australia. And they are just that. These modern megaliths are architectural feats. The opera house features 14, “shells,” that make up the roofing of this performing arts center. Though we didn’t go inside, events are always being held. Tickets are purchasable via box-office or online. As for the bridge, there are several ways to see this famous structure, most famously, the bridge climb. Experiences start at around $115 USD.

4) Sydney Harbor Water Taxis: These hop-on, hop-off ferries run through nine stops around the Circular Quay. Tickets can be purchased online or at a kiosk around Sydney Harbour. I loved this short excursion through the bay at sunset: the lights of the city reflecting off of the water was a spectacle I’ll cherish the rest of my life.

5) Colombian Hotel: Though not a real hotel, you’ll feel like a welcome guest in this queer-friendly, multi-level establishment situated on the famous Oxford Street. Like all gay bars, the pours are heavy and had us dancing until after midnight. There’s a full menu on the rooftop with chicken karaage, pizza, and even mozzarella sticks.

6) Noir Sydney: If going clubbing is your forte, this 18+ club will check all your boxes: dimly lit, loud bass, local DJs, and a lot of drunk people swaying (to the beat?). Did it transport me back to my college days? Yes, and now I’m permanently traumatized. Jk! I did have fun for about an hour before my aching, millennial bones told me to take a cab back and go to bed. If you’re a cool millennial still hanging on to your youth, you’ll be happy with the multiple bars and spacious venue.

7) Centennial Parklands: Better known as, “the lungs of Sydney,” this giant park space – approximately 467 acres – was where Knotfest was held, and the whole reason Sydney even happened. Getting to head bang with other maggots was a lifetime experience for me, though, I do wish I returned to explore the grounds a little more. According to the website, Centennial activities include bird watching, horseback riding, rollerblading, cycling, BBQs, picnics, and educational events like lectures on aboriginal foods.

8) The Sydney Zoo: I am not normally stoked on going to zoos and was hesitant to spend my last afternoon here, but I’m glad I was coerced into going. We had the grounds mostly to ourselves, because the weather wasn’t great (we ended up getting rained on and had to leave after the zoo announced closure), and were amongst the first to hit every encounter. Some of my favorite animals included the tigers, the kangaroo, the Tasmanian devils, the quokkas, and the cape porcupines. The spiders were also really fascinating to see, compared to those here in the states. A day ticket can be purchased online or in person for $50 USD. Make sure to wear comfortable walking shoes – this zoo is HUGE.