thexiao longblog

DAY ONE

After traveling over 15 hours, I landed in Seoul and met my friend in Itaewon – chosen for its LGBTQIA+ friendly atmosphere. Though most of day one was lost to travel, we still had a good amount of time to wander the alleyways and find some delicious food. There is no shortage of places to dive into and grab an aromatic dinner. We followed our noses into Pig Restaurant 2 (pictured below) and were astonished at how divine the meal was: a combination of pork steak, pork belly, and naengmyun (cold noodles in broth) – all for the price of $25/person. After dinner, we wandered into as many nooks and crannies as we possibly could – in awe of how much American culture influenced businesses. After passing the States American Diner, Mahalo Bar, Waikiki Beach Pub, and Sombrero, we found a little Prohibition speakeasy-esque bar called Dusk Till Dawn Bar (pictured). We sipped through some whiskey from different regions of Asia – highly recommend Ki One, single malt whiskey – before calling it a night.

*IMPORTANT: Foreign travelers relying on Apple Pay are going to be SOL in South Korea. Remember to bring plenty of cash (which is traveling abroad 101) OR find a place to purchase a T Money Card, which can replace any foreign cards you may have brought with you. T Money Cards can be found in the airport, in major train station hubs like Seoul Station, and even 7/11. Purchasing a T Money Card requires cash top offs, so make your exchange early and in enough quantities.

DAY TWO

Long gone are the days of scouring Google or bugging your well-traveled friend for recommendations (I’m glad you’re here and looking to this friend for recs, though). The easiest way to be abroad is to utilize ChatGPT. Because I’m the type of person who needs to do everything, I find it impossible to narrow my options down. With ChatGPT, we were able to plug in the area we were interested in touring, as well as key places we wanted to see and were given a comprehensive guide within seconds.

I must preface, Google Maps doesn’t populate directions in South Korea, so if you’re aiming to walk and train everywhere with cut and dry explanations, I would download Kakao Map. If you’re okay with a little old-fashioned map reading, then satellite view on Google Maps will be sufficient for getting around. We did a lot of pinching/zooming on our phones to match street names in real time. Google Translate is also necessary for translating anything you come across (unless you learn Korean beforehand, which, honestly we should have done more of).

Our first day of exploration included:

1. Gyeongbokgung Palace: Enter the grounds by purchasing tickets in advance on Klook or in person for roughly 3,000 WON or $2 USD. Klook is a travel app with package deals that can save you time and money. For instance, multi-day, train tickets are a few dollars cheaper than buying at the station and sometimes come with a redeemable perk, like a free Starbucks drink at participating locations. Gyeongbokgung is wildly touristy and many people were seen wearing the hanbok and donning umbrellas. We didn’t feel as though the grounds were worth spending more than an hour at, but if tours are your thing, you can book one of those through Klook.
2. Bukchon Hanok Village: 600-year-old homes called hanoks have been restored in this Seoul neighborhood with many hills, stairs, and small streets. The residential area is a quiet zone and posted signs require tourists (there are many) to be cognizant of the locals and keep voices to a minimum. The silence was a welcome change from the bustling city. And because I am a thirsty bitch, we had to stop in a few, picturesque finds for a quick sip. Here are where you can find good vibes and tasty treats:
   • Jeong’s Tea House: Known for their persimmon tea with a taste between heaven and spiced honey, Jeong’s is nestled up high for stellar views of Seoul. Make sure to order some pumpkin castella cakes to go with your tea, as well. The lightly sweetened pastry is small enough to have in one bite and a nice addition to the sweet tea.
   • ONE Cafe: The menu consists of coffee, tea, and pastries, as do most cafes in Korea, but their leg up was the black sesame cream latte. I am a HUGE slut for black sesame, so I had to have it (and was not disappointed).
3. Insa-dong Culture Street: Similarly rich in culture to Hanok, Insa-dong was next on our list. A short train ride away had our stomachs on the prowl for some lunch. One of my favorite Korean dishes is tteokbokki, which my friend had never tried, so we made it our mission to find him some, which you can find at the Ikseon Jindak branch. So much flavor in the tteokbokki AND fried chicken – all for the price of $18 USD (pictured below for clarity).
4. Euljiro/Seongsudong: After the historical walking tour, we wanted to transition our day to a spot with more options and made our way to what people are calling, “hipjiro,” according to Chat. The scenery here was much more modern and people our age were out and about, versus the families we saw earlier in the day. Here’s the ground we covered:
   • Dongdaemun Design Plaza: A HUGE (eyesore of an) establishment amidst Korea’s simplistic architecture. The grounds are free to roam and there are some fun, locally made pieces in the store at the base of the multi-level museum. If you want to pay the entrance fee of $10-15 USD, you can view whatever exhibits are on the rotation.
   • Daelim Changgo Warehouse Coffee Shop: As previously mentioned, my heart yearns for beverages, so we had to make a quick pit stop in the Brooklyn of Seoul aka Seongsudong. This old warehouse was converted into an airy space filled with plants, local artwork, and a really hip, industrial vibe. I felt far too normal to be in the establishment, and barely made eye contact with the beautiful baristas as I checked out with multiple pastries and coffee — like, am I allowed to be eating or is that uncool? Do not leave without trying the strawberry cream croissant or the tissue bread. If you’re feeling boozy, there is beer on the menu, too.
   • Grandpa Factory: Another converted warehouse with a massive courtyard boasting a treehouse and a giant boar statue. We didn’t grab any drinks, but the menu did include coffees, teas, and alcohol.
   • Sunset Record Bar: Tucked away on the second story and filled with hundreds of records, Sunset Bar was a relaxing place for us to rest our weary legs before heading to our Airbnb for the night. We had a good laugh at the gaudy decor: a smoky fountain in the middle of the bar, neon signs, disco balls, and kitschy framed photos of musical artists. You can request any songs via the bartender and a live DJ will mix them into the rotation. We opted for Bohemian Rhapsody and The Bad Touch.

DAY THREE

One of my favorite things about Korea is its consumerism; beauty at the forefront followed by poorly translated (yet campy) English products. Some of my favorite phrases include, “Please do not chaf in the library,” “Don’t talk about coffee flavor without tasting,” “Sometimes they bite the wires, rip the wallpaper, but they’re so cute that they’re forgiving, we call them Maltese,” and, “Radical liberal and the mind blow.”

If you’re not looking to giggle at the campiness, you can, instead, visit:

1. Gangnam: Think 5th Ave in New York City. Gangnam is coated in luxury; it’s no wonder PSY dedicated an entire song to the style. We made Coex Mall our destination, because it’s the largest underground mall in Asia, and we HAD to see their library with 42-ft-high bookshelves (pictured). There is also a MASSIVE bronze statue of the Gangnam Style hands on the mall lawn.
   • Miltteok Factory (밀떡팩토리): We had to get some more tteokbokki, because, I insisted. And for brunch? Iconic. This time, we opted for a spicy sauce with mozzarella and the addition of quail eggs. The flavors were layered beyond comprehension — absolutleyforcing me to eat past my capacity, because I simply could not stop.
   • Ader Error Museum (store?): Along our walk in Gangnam, we came across what we thought was a walk-through museum, but it was indeed, a luxury brand. Some of the most ostentatious pieces of clothing I have ever seen — with price tags over $400 — were displayed on each of the five floors. There was even a ridiculous cafe with foods being displayed as sculptures, and a whole rooftop for consuming the overpriced pastries. Go for the fun experience; do not purchase anything.
2. Myeongdong: Not as luxurious as Gangnam, but still very trendy, Myeongdong is home to a bustling night market, as well as gorgeous rooftops and knock-off designer bags. We chose this location as a central meeting ground, as my sister was in town for the night. For those of you that like surfing, she went and honed her skills at the Wavegarden in Siheung (so impossibly out of the way – her Uber from the heart of Seoul was over 30 min, so just take that into consideration). We were also looking for a place to go and get some Botox, and Myeongdong had stellar reviews. Must visits:
   • Lienjang: This clinic was highly-rated by some of my coworkers and is attached to the Noon Square Mall in Myeongdong. Packages are sold per area of face, rather than a per unit pricing scale. For about 55 units in the upper portion of my face, the price was $130 USD, which is about a quarter of what I have paid in the US. Other packages include dermatology, skin tightening, body contouring, and even reconstructive surgeries.
   • Wangbijib Korean BBQ: Nothing gets you hungrier than some needles in your face, and so we settled on Korean BBQ for an early dinner. Wangbijib has a stacked menu with marinated galbi, steak tartare, sirloin, chuck flaps, pork shoulders, assorted vegetables, Korean pancakes, and sundubu jigae (tofu soup). For three of us to eat past the point of exploding, it cost less than $100 USD. Could not recommend this place more. Bonus points for the awesome views of Myeongdong.
   • Literally any skincare store amidst the saturated market: We opted for La Nueva No. 1. My goal was to be sold on whatever the team thought I could use (and sell me, did they ever). The haul split between my sister and I was $300 USD, and we each left with seven products, including ~50, free, collagen face masks for spending over $200. Products I left with:
     • Baviplan 30 mL Cica Exosome Repair Needle Shot 3000 cream
     • Baviplan stem cell tox volume fill Impact essence
     • Make P:Rem End Pore Tightening Serum
     • Make P:Rem Inteca Soothing Cream
     • Skin 1004 Madagascar Centella Probio-cica Intensive Ampoule
     • S. Nature Aqua Squalane Moisturing Wrinkle Lifting Cream
   • The Roof Seoul: Enter via a dimly lit, record-themed bar on the 8th floor (they love their records in Koreal), and take the stairs up to the rooftop. Live music spins as the crowd overlooks Myeongdong. The aesthetic felt very tropical underground meets Brooklyn with neon lights, umbrellas, and a hint of grunge. I wasn’t feeling boozy, but I did order a hibiscus tea. Other notable menu items include: espresso martinis, Sex on the Beach, various highballs, jambalaya, charcuterie, spiced popcorn, and kimchi.
   • Myeongdong Night Market: Set up starts later in the afternoon and the action picks up once the sun sets. Various vendors are packed next to one another offering everything from cheaply made designer bags (see: CNAHEL) to giant marshmallows covered in chocolate to fried crab. Very few vendors accept card, so come prepared with your won.

TRAIN TO BUSAN (AKA DAYS FOUR-SIX)

I will never shut up about Busan. Underrated beyond comprehension. In fact, not a single person I know has mentioned traveling here, and I work with flight attendants. The hot commodity in South Korea is Seoul, but I have no idea why. Don’t misconstrue, I had a lot of fun traversing the city, but I’ve been to many cities, and most of them feel the same. Busan is unlike any place I’ve been to. Our plans to go were based solely on the horror movie, Train to Busan, and it was such a last minute decision. That being said, we had zero expectations. And Busan is now the expectation. We spent three days here, but I could have signed a lease and moved in. Some recommendations:

1. Millak Raw Fish Market: If you are a fan of seafood, I cannot recommend this market enough. Local fisherman sell fish you’ve probably never seen, including rockfish, flatfish, flounder, and mullet. Each vendor will try and pull you in to sell their freshly caught haul. We weren’t sure if there was a smart way to choose, so we let the loudest men entice us. After pointing to a couple fish in the tanks, we were directed to head upstairs as they prepared the sashimi. Pictured below is our flatfish/rockfish combo. The fish is served with many side dishes, including kimchi, corn, tofu with scallions and a gochujang sauce, beondegi (aka silkworm pupae – don’t be intimidated by it, the flavor is nutty and such a compliment to the fish), wasabi, and raw garlic. We opted for some Busan soju to wash everything down. 500/10 experience. Would eat this every day for the rest of my life if I could. Especially when it’s only $35 USD.
2. Gwangalli Beach: Unlike any beaches I’ve been to, Gwangalli’s coastline is vibrant, clean, and picturesque. You can view movies in the evening on one corner of the beach (Dune 2 was playing our first night), watch a firework/drone show every Saturday night, go for a swim after watching a street performer sing his heart out, and even set up a table for Korean BBQ if your heart so desires.
   • Sipsipsip Bar: Looking for a quiet place to unwind with a glass of wine? This rooftop bar overlooks Gwangalli Beach in all her glory. You’ll catch stellar views of the Gwangan Bridge (pictured) and, if you’re lucky, a few of the boats may send up some fireworks for a mini-show.
   • Motoishi Gwangalli: A bustling Yakiniku restaurant with some of the juiciest pieces of wagyu I’ve had in my life. And the unassuming atmosphere made it so much better. Dining like a queen on authentic Japanese yakiniku in the middle of Korea? How many people can say they’ve done that? Because the beef was premium wagyu, this was the priciest place we ate our entire time in Korea at about $65 (still a fair price when split between two people).
   • Cafe Haute: Situated right across from the beautiful beach, this cafe is a great place to grab a pastry/coffee, and take in the peaceful views or people watch. Highly recommend the sweet potato latte and the tiramisu tart.
3. Gamcheon Culture Village: Located high up in the mountainside of Busan, Gamcheon Culture Village originated as a place for post-war, working class families to relocate. After 80 years of impoverished living conditions, the city focused its efforts on revitalizing the village with artwork. It is now a colorful labyrinth of culture and tourism. We spent close to half our day wandering the hills, climbing stairs, viewing gorgeous sculptures and giving in to consumerism by purchasing tchotchkes in the souvenir stores. If you’re a fan of Antoine de Saint-Exupery’s The Little Prince, the village is hugely inspired with numerous sculptures to capture photos of.
   • Gamcheong Gomtang (감천사골소머리곰탕): A no frills, cozy, Korean restaurant in the middle of Gamcheon Culture Village run by the nicest woman – don’t let her sweet disposition fool you: she whips up a mean menu, including various gomtang (soup) and mandu (dumplings). We opted for the spicy oxtail gomtang with kimchi AND galbi mandu.
   • Blue House on the Stairs: Cute, little pit stop for some beverages and to wait for the rain to pass. On a sunny day, the rooftop can be enjoyed overlooking all of Gamcheon. Do try their Mont Blanc croissant (try these in literally all bakeries across Korea – they’re a round, risen croissant about the size of a human head), and their cloud latte, which comes with cotton candy as its topper.
4. Gwangbokro Fashion Street: Trendy neighborhood with cute boutiques and vintage stores, plus views of Busan Tower. Definitely check out Nunchi Mode Vintage for custom made vintage American clothing.
5. Jagalchi Fish Market: Located within walking distance of Gwangbokro, the Jagalchi Fish Market is an outdoor one with vendors aplenty. Quality of the fish is in the freshness of the smell as you peruse the long streets of sellers. Some of the vendors offer prepared food behind their storefront, so if you’re hungry, stop in for a bite.
6. Huinnyeol Culture Village: Another picturesque village with narrow alleyways and colorful buildings set into the mountainside of Busan. Known for its Footbath Cafe, where you can soak your feet to views of the ocean, while sipping on a a hot tea.
   • Lisboa: Though our feet were sore and could have used a foot bath, we opted for a glass of wine, instead. Lisboa is located at the summit of Huinnyeol and has ample loungers overlooking the water. This is absolutely the place to go to unwind: bring a book, listen to a podcast, people watch, etc.
7. Haedong Yonggung Temple: Incredible place of worship, mainly because it sits right on the ocean – the only thing separating me from jumping in was a wrought-iron face. Entry is free, but I recommend getting there as early as possible to beat the crowd. We weren’t aware of how populous this temple could get and were fighting pedestrian traffic every which way. Is it worth visiting? Absolutely. Is it necessary to stay long? Absolutely not.
8. Lotte World Adventure: Go to feel some adrenaline in the silliest of ways. The park is doable in a few hours with short lines and limited rides. If you like rollercoasters, definitely ride the Giant Diger (you can do it more than once in less than an hour). There’s also a water ride where I got absolutely soaked. Overall, the park feels like it was built in the 90’s and hasn’t been renovated since, even though doors officially opened in 2022. Tickets were only $25 USD, though, so you can get your money’s worth easily.
9. Skyline Luge Busan: Right next door to Lotte World is the Skyline Luge, a 5,200 foot race track, originally developed in New Zealand. Skyline Enterprises now operates in 7 countries, and I’m so glad we were fortunate enough to experience this attraction. If you’re looking for adrenaline, but don’t have time for both a theme park and this, skip Lotte World. Packages are sold in 2, 3, 4, or 5 rides from $22-26. The experience starts with a quick lesson on the luge bikes (carried up to the top of the mountain via lift), and then you’re free to hit the slope as fast as you can get yourself to go. Cannot recommend this experience enough.
10. Haeundae Blueline Beach Train: Starting at the Mipo Station and ending at Cheongsapo, this vintage train with floor-to-ceiling windows offers glimpses of the Busan coastline. Get your tickets early and to the station at least 30 min prior to your departure for better seating choices (or you’ll be left standing for up to 25 minutes). We did the route in reverse as we were in Songjeong, needing to head west towards Haeundae.
11. Haeundae Ogtap Rooftop Bar/Restaurant: Another day, another rooftop bar for a glass of wine to end our long day of walking all over Korea. Visible from the bar is the famous ocean sculpture of a woman with outstretched arms, as well as the many sand sculptures from the community’s annual Sand Festival. The sculptures all ranged in size, with the more impressive being over 35 feet, and depicted historical figures from Korean history, as well as some American ones, like Michael Jackson.
12. Orleans Vintage Store: A massive, underground vintage store run by a local designer, Lee Jong Yoon, who reworks American clothing, including old graphic shirts, flannels, and denim. Lee Jong happened to love my outfit, probably, because I was quintessentially American in camo pants and an oversized bleach-dyed shirt, that he asked to take my photo in some of his designs. I ended up leaving with a re-worked Caesar’s Palace shirt with flannel sleeves and pockets at a discounted price. Definitely check this place out for unique Korean fashion.
13. Shinsegae Department Store Centum City: According to the Guinness Book of World Records, this department store is the largest in South Korea. The retail space has over 16 floors and roughly 700 stores/food options. The mall operates in a hierarchal structure with the more affordable retailers in the basement and luxury towards the top. You can easily get lost in here, and if you’re looking to spend $$$$, this is a one-stop shop.

In summary, South Korea has so much to offer all types of travelers, and I hope everyone gets the chance to explore this wonderful place some day. Feel free to reach out with any questions/comments here. Thanks for reading!

Back…