Situated about 25 miles off the coast of Kaohsiung, Taiwan, sits a quaint, little island called Xiaoliuqiu. With only 12,200 residents and an area over 2,000 square-miles, it’s no wonder our radars miss this blip. Don’t let her size fool you, though, Xiaoliuqiu has more to offer than you’d imagine.
The main driver of tourism is diving. The crystal clear waters boast an impressive sea turtle population, seemingly unafraid of the people they come into contact with, and you will come in contact with them.
Depending on your comfortability in the water, there are several ways to join in on the fun, including snorkeling, scuba diving, stand-up paddling, kayaking, or free diving. I opted for option E, after doing some research and coming upon Raymond Ko’s website: Freedive Nomad.
Raymond was once a trader, working between Hong Kong and the US. After 20 years, he decided to shift his focus to diving and has never looked back. Ray is an incredible presence and amazing dive instructor through Molchanovs (if you don’t know Alexey or Natalia, I highly suggest watching Freediver or The Deepest Breath on Amazon Prime). Anyone looking to expand their comfortability in the ocean, need look no further. His rates are a bit high for free dive training, but the instruction includes four days of mostly open water dives on the line. Also included are room/moped rental, yoga instruction, sound bath, course work/review, and pool time for $900USD.
If you’re not interested in holding your breath for long periods of time, several companies on island offer scuba and other water activities: Wet Dream Divers, and Discover Lamay. A lot of businesses prefer cash over electronic payments, so it’s best to bring the tangible, even if you booked a tour in advance. One of the divers on my trip thought they booked a hotel using a card online, but nothing was processed and the hotel needed a cash payment on site. There are ATMs on the island, but they do not accept foreign cards. I did find that the 7/11’s and Family Mart’s accepted Apple Pay, but then you’re limited to convenience stores only, and trust me, you’re going to want to shop/dine elsewhere.
And elsewhere starts here:
1) Simple Eats: No frills style of Taiwanese dining with outdoor seating and fast-service. The menu includes a cured, mahi mahi fried rice that is to die for, as well as glass noodles, and various dumplings. The food is so cheap, I’d be surprised if you spent more than $5USD for yourself, and the portions are generous. Such a good way to fuel up after your dives.
2) Island Burger: American-style, smash burgers on a Taiwanese island? One of those moments where you have to shake yourself awake. The menu includes fries, an Islands Burger with secret sauce, a Texas Ranger with bacon and barbecue, the Hawaii Wave with pineapple, and even a chicken burger. A meal with fries is about $10USD.
3) a.donut: As a self-proclaimed, donut connoisseur, I pride myself in having tried donuts all over the world. This little food cart, parked next to Secret Beach on XLQ is on my top 5, which is insane, since the menu includes only five flavors. I recommend trying them all, especially the lime/cream cheese – a decadent, fluffy creation that tastes like a warm, summer experience. The owner provides a few blankets on his cart, and if you’re early enough, you can snag one and take a spot on the beach to enjoy your sweet treat.
4) Lixiaolong: I had to go and try the xiaolongbao, obviously. And Lixiaolong did not disappoint. The menu also includes pork dishes, many soups, and fried rice. The minimum order for one person is $3USD, so, go crazy! Xiaolongbitch in xiaoliuqiu eating xiaolongbao at lixiaolong – say that five times fast.
5) Xuanjianglou Soup Dumplings: Another day, another soup dumpling. This street-side vendor was preferable to lixiaolong, for me, because of the expert craftsmanship and freshness. With only one person rolling and making the dumplings, the wait is a bit longer, but so worth it. I ordered the spicy soup dumplings (7 pieces) for $3USD, and the steamed chive dumplings (7 pieces) for $2USD.
6) 高記鴨片館 (Duck restaurant?): A recommendation through Ray, after learning I was a big fan of duck. The restaurant offers full and half portions, as well as fried rice, chicken, and vegetable stir-fry. The restaurant shares a building with a sushi restaurant nearby, and also offers a sushi menu to order from (if duck isn’t your thing).
7) Bun Takumi: Braised pork belly and soy sauce eggs on rice. Need I say more? Thick cuts of Taiwanese pork will have you questioning why all pork can’t be prepared like this. Grab your rice bowl, take a seat on the steps outside, and spend the day people watching in awe. No other way to live.
8) Manban Cafe: We had an early rise itinerary while diving, and I needed my coffee to jumpstart my brain. Luckily, Manban opened early and was within walking distance (although, everything is in walking distance) from Ray’s place. I highly recommend the Hokkaido latte, the strawberry latte, and the Oreo coffee smoothie. Drinks are priced fairly, with the most expensive one, being $3USD.
9) Summer Fresh Seafood: Went on a cute, little date with a stranger from New York (life is so insane), and ended up at this seafood restaurant with more food on our table than should be legal for only $35USD. There was a tank of live fish we were able to choose from and have them steam/prepare it for us within minutes. I also recommend the deep-fried squid and kimchi beef.
10) Mrs. Zhou Congee: I grew up eating congee for breakfast; it was a staple in my house. We had everything from pork floss, to bamboo in chili oil, and century eggs to compliment the stew. Since it was winter, and we were all freezing our butts off, Ray made it a point to bring us here for some childhood favorites. The best thing about congee is that you can’t do it wrong. I will always be happy eating a bowl of this.
11) OCEAN: A beachfront property with floor seating amidst man-made sand. Come for the views of the Pacific Ocean, and stay for the vibes/fun drink menu, including a mango tea affogato and beer. If you’re hungry, there is also pizza and bar food like fries and popcorn.
12) Sea Daze: Quite literally the coolest concept bar I’ve ever visited. Like OCEAN, this bar sit oceanside with man-made sand in the establishment. The leg up? Sea Daze has a full liquor menu, as well as an extensive hookah menu. There’s no better way to train your lungs for diving than to smoke some shisha (I’m kidding). There’s also live music and stray kittens to keep you company. I think about this place often and am convinced it’s as close to heaven as you can get.
13) 小琉球卡丁車 (Go Karts): If you’re in the mood for a little adrenaline, but don’t like the ocean, visit Xiaoliuqiu Karting for a few laps. I purchased a Xiaoliuqiu experience package on Klook for $31USD during my first time on the island, and go-karting was 1/3 experiences I could choose from. It’s very silly, and very fun.
14) Wonderland of Deer: This was another experience I picked through Klook. The deer sanctuary is a bit drab, but an experience nonetheless. Upon entering, you’ll be given a bag of carrots and a quick briefing on feeding the deer. I spent a total of ten minutes with the animals, then left with a free drink (they give you a coupon, because of the Klook booking). Go if you are a fan of zoos and spending time with animals in an enclosure.
Though I’ve been to Xiaoliuqiu several times, I’ve still not explored all it has to offer. There are hikes and trails worth visiting, as well. If you have more time and aren’t adhered to a strict schedule, make sure to hit Beauty Cave, Vase Rock, the Wild Boar Trench Trail, Lobster Cave, and the Black Devil Cave (and let me know your thoughts).
**A step-by-step guide for getting to Xiaoliuqiu can be found here (thanks Ray)!
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