thexiao longblog

One of the most magical places in Japan is in its northernmost island, Hokkaido. Niseko is a winter wonderland, sought after by powder-riders from all over the world, and because it’s really not easy to get to, the snow remains fresh throughout the winter season.

I have been fortunate enough to visit two years in a row and am counting down the days until I’m back again! For anyone dreaming of heading out, here’s the skinny:

Getting to Niseko is easy; how you get there is when things start to complicate. There are few direct flights from the USA to Sapporo (limited to days and seasons, so always check), but many into either Haneda (HND) or Narita (NRT). If you are lucky enough to fly directly into CTS, then you need only book a shuttle to the Niseko United ski area. We’ve used The Niseko Direct Shuttle over the last two years, and I can confirm, it’s reliable and timely. The company will send you a confirmation email with detailed instructions for checking in. Bus pick-up is on the first level of CTS; it is recommended you arrive at least 30 min before your scheduled departure to get your bags loaded.

If you are coming from Tokyo, because you want to explore the city before boarding, you can arrange to have your equipment sent from a Tokyo airport to Niseko (must give the company at least two days for the bags to arrive to your destination). Book here with Yamato Transport. You can keep your equipment with you, as well, but trust me when I say, it is a hassle maneuvering the city with snow equipment and then some. Furthermore, if you choose to take the bullet train from Tokyo to Niseko, you’re going to want to bring as little as possible. The most important train to look at when traveling into Japan’s northern island is the Tohoku Shinkansen line (JR East), which is about four hours from south to north. Once in Sapporo, you will take three or four connecting trains into Niseko. The journey is arduous, but worth it for the views.

Hokkaido contains over 100 different resorts; Niseko is the largest with four resorts on one mountain. The four resorts are branded Niseko United and are as follows: Annupuri, Niseko, Hirafu, and Hanozono. Each area comes equipped with its own lift access, hotels and bnbs, as well as shopping and dining. In my opinion, the Niseko and Annupuri villages have the best runs/access to the entirety of the Annupuri mountain, but if you’re looking for lesser crowds and easier runs, you’re better off at Hirafu or Hanozono. If you’re looking for a challenge, you will find markers throughout the mountain marked with a G (gate), which lead to backcountry areas. Backcountry is never to be entered by passing under ropes or without an avalanche beacon, and if you’re found to be violating these rules, you can have your pass revoked, as well as have to pay a hefty $650 fine.

*Please exercise caution when attempting deep snow areas. Know your level, know when to say no, and most importantly, know you’re there to have fun. Snowboarding can be a rewarding, spiritual experience if you don’t push past your limits. Remember, you’re not Chloe Kim or Shaun White.

Because there is so much to do, I highly recommend buying lift tickets when you’re in Niseko, on a day-to-day basis. Each resort has its own ticketing office and day passes for its respected section of the mountain, but I suggest buying the All-Mountain pass for $78 USD, so you can traverse all four resorts. Lifts close at 15:30, though, so make sure to find your way to your village prior to closure, or risk having to wait in a long line for the bus.

If you do have to take the bus, there are a a few different options. Make sure to check with your lodging to see if they have their own transportation, which helps lessen wait times (and are often free). The bus schedule changes per season and can be found here. Alternatively, you can rent a car, but the roads are narrow, icy, and driven on the left, which can be an added stressor to international travel that you just don’t need. Uber and GO Taxi (the cheaper Japanese alternative) are also available, but a lot of drivers aren’t stoked on bulky, snow equipment. The last option is to walk, but I wouldn’t recommend this unless you’re staying close by. *Make sure to bring cash with you, as the bus system only accepts local currency.

LODGING

• Hilton Niseko: What it lacks in charm and neighborliness, it makes up for in amenities. The Hilton Niseko is perfect for those wanting to splurge and have an elevated experience. With 9 different dining options, access to an onsen, onsite shuttle service, a convenience store, snow equipment storage, and proximity to the Niseko Village, this Hilton will make sure your time in northern Japan is stress-free. I highly recommend booking through the Hilton app for points, as well as the most up-to-date deals. We were able to secure a daily breakfast buffet, which was about $10 (per day) cheaper than paying at the counter. Our total stay for three nights was a pricy $1500, but again, you get what you pay for. Most notable part of our stay? The bottle of wine, Royce chocolates, and cheese crackers left in our room after checking in. That being said, would I stay here again? Probably not – and only because I felt location-locked into what I purchased initially. We didn’t get much time to explore more of Annupuri, and there’s so much more.

• Hotel Kanronomori: 15 min east of Niseko Village, sits this quaint and quiet hotel. Kanronomori is for the traveler who wants to unwind in peace after hitting pow all day. Guests can enjoy live music in the lobby on weekend evenings, hit the gym for a good stretching session, and/or relax in the onsen. Additionally, there is one on-site restaurant offering breakfast and dinner amidst views of snowfall. My favorite part of Kanronmori was how quiet it felt at any given point in the day, even though we were there during peak season. An added bonus is its exclusive mountain shuttle running every half hour; we never had to wait long from the hotel to the slopes, and vice versa. Nightly rates always run at least $100 cheaper than name brands like Hilton and Hyatt. I highly recommend this stay.

• Annupuri Lodge: Situated at the base of Annupuri village, this hostel-esque lodging is perfect for big groups wanting a no-frills experience. With only eight bookable rooms, big groups can rent the whole place out. If you’re traveling alone or in a small group, there is a bunk room available to book, as well. Rates start at about $70/night during peak season. Even if you don’t end up staying here, I recommend having a bite and drink at the restaurant, Luckyfingers. The wagyu and wasabi mashed potatoes are divine – the cherry to top a perfect day of powder.

FOOD & DRINK

1. Wakasaimo: Before getting to Niseko, you most certainly will be stopping in the New Chitose Airport. There are over 100 different vendors to shop and dine amongst, which can be a sensory overload. Before you short circuit, I encourage you to re-up on some sugar with Wakasaimo. This vibrant business enticed us with its cheerful, yellow sign and fragrant, waffle cone scent. Known for its sweet potatoes, you will find a menu of various cookies, crackers, and its famed, sweet potato soft-serve with a red bean core. We loved it here so much we stopped again on our way back to the US.
2. Kinoko Okoku: Funghi enthusiasts will find much solace at Kinoko Okoku, a rest stop between the New Chitose Airpot and Niseko. This large shop serves as the halfway point and is a great way to stock up on food, drink, and souvenirs. Make sure you try some takoyaki (squid balls) and fried enoki mushrooms.
3. Nook Annupuri: Located at the base of the Annupuri resort, Nook is a great place to stop and grab a cheap bite. Either go before or after lunch – peak hours can get busy. You’ll be fighting to find a spot to have your meal – I’ve witnessed people eating full bowls of soup standing. I highly recommend the salmon roe and crab bowl for $40 USD, as well as the Mita Farm’s green tea ice cream ($4).
4. Milky’s Cafe & Bar: Stop into Milky’s for a cup of coffee before you hit the mountain, for a shot of whiskey during your lunch break, and a hot toddy to end your day. This cute, little shop is just a short walk from the base of Annupuri, so depending on where you’re staying, you could run into it (if you’re ambitiously walking). We did happen to ambitiously walk from Kanronomori to grab some fresh coffee one morning, and it was the boost of energy we needed to traverse some side country runs. I highly recommend trying the homemade brownie and a Bailey’s latte.
5. Bar Gyu: A MUST STOP on your Niseko ski trip – don’t let anyone tell you it’s overrated. The wait is worth the hype, trust me! In 1999, Hisashi Watanabe started this fridge door (yes, you enter via a refrigerator just sitting in some snow) bar as an unassuming venue for locals and visitors to experience something unique. Each year, Watanabe and his wife, Ionna, hand write and draw up a new menu of captivating cocktails. A few of my previous favorites include the, ‘Hot Apple Pie,’ with Yoichi apple juice, vanilla-infused vodka, cinnamon, clove, and lemon, as well as the, ‘Je Ne Sais Poire,’ with Hokkaido Shakotan peninsula gin, pear brandy, white vermouth, and absinthe. You can read more about their story here.
6. The Alpinist: Cold weather and fondue go together better than peanut butter and jelly, and honestly, the common analogy should be the former. I digress, visit this second story Odin Properties restaurant to indulge in cheesy goodness. Odin Properties includes many delicious options, including Musu Bar + Bistro, The Barn, and Koko Bakery – if fondue doesn’t tickle your fancy. Aside from fondue, I recommend trying the confit duck leg for $20 USD.
7. Bar Barunba: If you’re not looking for it, Bar Barunba will pass you by, as it’s tucked away under a low-hanging awning on a side street in Niseko Village. You quite literally have to duck to make your entrance into this low-lit, no-frills dive bar. The menu is small with three stand-out cocktails called the, ‘Jet Li,’ ‘Bruce Lee,’ and the, ‘Bruce Willis’ – all the same ingredients, just varying in size. The bartenders won’t tell you what’s in it, but it’s known to cause blurry nights, so, y’know, drink at your own risk.
8. Magic Mountain: My personal favorite Niseko bar for its live DJ and vibe-y atmosphere. After climbing a long flight of stairs, you’ll enter a mood-lit cabin overlooking the snow-covered Momiji-zaka street. Must try: spicy margarita. Must do: dance until the bartenders kick you out.
9. Lounge Bar by Park90: Situated inside the Setsu Hotel, the Lounge Bar by Park90 is a casual way to enjoy some of the finer dining offered at the hotel, including Sushi Kato INORI. Though we weren’t able to order from the full menu, we still indulged on fresh uni, fatty tuna, and ikura, as well as a sommelier curated menu of 300 wines – we had the Chateau Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien, which is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Bordeaux. All-in-all, I enjoyed the Lounge Bar, but it isn’t a must-visit.
10. Half Note: If you want to end your night singing next to a stranger from Australia, look no further than Half Note, which is always filled to the brim with the entirety of Niseko’s tourism. You can expect live music, karaoke, or even trivia, depending on the day. Can’t make it out of the bar? No problem! Upstairs is Pension Full Note, a boutique hotel with cheap rates (for Niseko) running roughly $110 USD/night.
11. Imoya Niseko: THE sweet potato guy of Niseko. You’ll hear his song long before you see him coming, and before you know it, you’ll be singing, “ishiyaki imo,” on loop for the rest of your trip. Ishiyaki imo is a stone-roasted sweet potato sold piping hot out of a mobile truck; it’s the best treat to have while exploring the Niseko Village area.
12. Ezo Pub: One of the many restaurants in the Hilton Niseko, Ezo is open late with a menu catering to tourists. You’ll find burgers, pizza, pasta, and salads. The most endorsed item, however, is the, “Chilly Niseko,” a cocktail marketed as a, “spicy hot beverage always served cold.” You can even buy merch. So, what is it? A blend of gin, habanero chili, blueberry, blackberry, and mango. Meh. Only visit Ezo if you have no other options, but I highly suggest traversing off of hotel grounds.
13. The Lookout Cafe: The Lookout Cafe is directly accessible via the gondola at the base of the Hilton resort. Since it’s toward the top of the mountain, it’s a perfect stop between runs for a bowl of piping hot ramen with snow crab and sweet corn (you MUST TRY!!!!!). Make sure to bring cash, as it is one of the few places on the mountain that doesn’t accept cards or tap-to-pay. A big plus is being next to the Wonderland Chair, so you can jump right back into the action.
14. Lodge 401 Annupuri: There is no shortage of ramen in Niseko, but you’d be remiss if you didn’t stop into this boutique hotel for their heaping portion of spicy tonkotsu ramen. There are also games and a Theragun available for anyone stopping in. The Lodge runs about $110USD/night, and is about 300 feet from the base of the Annupuri lifts.
15. Powder Company: A cute, little hot chocolate stop moonlighting as a snow equipment store, just up the hill from the Annupuri gondola. Make sure you also try their homemade Rice Krispies with chocolate and huge marshmallows. And if you’re trying to ball out, leave with a new snowboard and some boots, too.
16. Pizza Del Sole: The literal best pizza I have ever had in my life. Everyone talks about the Japanese being pioneers of pizza, and wow, just wow – they’re not wrong. Reservations book up months in advance, so make sure you snag a spot ASAP. Pizza Del Sole wood-fires all of their pizzas in an open-concept kitchen, so you can watch the magic happen right before your eyes. I recommend the salami piccante with anchovies. Make sure to ask for the chili oil to drizzle on your pizza; a 12″ pie will run you about $20USD. Buon appetito!
17. Bears Cafe: Ride about a quarter of the way down from the Jumbo Quad Lift to reach this picturesque hut. With only 26 seats, Bears Cafe can get packed to the brim with riders in need of its famous pork bao (buns) the size of a head. I also recommend trying the hojicha latte for its robust, roasted flavor, and the mulled wine.
18. Lela Topens: Delicious Hokkaido milk ice cream, stuffed crepes, and waffles covered in syrups and candy – what more could one possibly want out of a dessert store? Lela Topens is situated in the Niseko Village shops; look for the giant ice cream cone statue. My personal recommendation is having a shot of Fireball with the milk ice cream as a chaser.
19. Kaguya: Nestled in the multi-level establishment, Phoenix, this swanky cocktail bar checked all of my boxes: dim-lighting, a friendly bartender, and the best dry martini I’ve ever had with sesame dry vermouth, vodka, salt, and sesame oil. I couldn’t even get myself to try anything else on the menu – seriously, it was that good. If you’re looking for food, hats off to the chef: wagyu steak, chicken liver pate, venison stew, hamachi crudo, and a king salmon steak are a few of the items you can order.
20. Afuri Ramen: Though this famous chain has locations in the United States, having a bowl in Japan just feels right. While I can’t speak for the other locations, the Niseko Afuri is efficient, and the product never falters. My go to is the creamy tonyu tantan with spicy miso tare, soy milk, gyokuro tea, miso cashew nuts, garlic chives, pine nuts, green onion, sesame, chili flakes, and thick noodles. As with most internationally renowned restaurants, reservations are crucial.

Thanks for reading! I hope this guide was helpful to anyone planning a ski trip out to beautiful Hokkaido. If you have any questions, drop a comment below or email me at huangbaum@gmail.com.