For my partner’s birthday this year, she asked if we could go adventure in northern Arizona, and peak at my hometown in Phoenix. I’m always apprehensive returning to a place that brought me so much pain, but when I’m able to see it through the eyes of someone else, I’m reminded there is beauty in the desert.
We decided on a fun roadtrip from Tempe to Sedona, eventually settling in Lake Powell for two nights of glamping. If you’re passing through Arizona and have a couple of days to explore, I highly recommend our itinerary:
Start in the east valley, and stay somewhere with a stellar pool (which is essentially every hotel in Arizona – it would be criminal not to have one). We chose to start with the AC Hotel Tempe/Downtown, and end our trip with the Hotel Adeline Scottsdale, due to their proximities to the airport. AC hotel is within walking distance of Mill Ave. – the infamous street filled with chaotic bars and drunk ASU students. Though the crowd is young, there are still some great choices for drinks and dinner, without having to worry about diabolical college behavior.
Some of my favorite spots we visited in Tempe/Scottsdale are: Culinary Dropout and Filthy Animal. Make sure to try the 36-hour, roasted bbq ribs and pretzel bites at Culinary, then stop for the Chilte Bell EM cocktail (red bell pepper, vodka, Strega, lime, basil, chiltepin, tangerine, cointreau) at Filthy. Some honorable mentions I didn’t get to bring my partner to include: The Henry, The Mission, Teleferic, and The Vig.
After perusing Tempe, make your way west on the I-17, but ignore the entire west valley. Seriously, there’s not a lot going on here. Then, you’re going to head north until you reach Sedona. Make sure you give yourself a whole day (or a few if you’re feeling froggy) to explore this quaint, desert town. My must-dos are:
- Bell Rock and Courthouse Butte: Two of the most striking rock formations in all of Sedona, these behemoths are viewable as you enter the city. I highly suggest taking time to stop in the park and walk the 3.7 miles round-trip from feat to feat. This site is also one of the most famous vortices, where energy is thought to flow upward, bringing a sense of renewed energy and clarity. I have yet to experience this, but maybe you will. Make sure to bring plenty of water; it isn’t always hot, but it is dry.
- Tlaquepaque Shopping Center: This shopping plaza feels like a garden labyrinth with fun finds around every corner. You can shop locally made artwork, grab a drink at one of five restaurants, or find a seat in the courtyard to people watch. On a hot day, the ice cream at Dulce really hits the spot.
- Hideaway House: Please get a glass of wine here and just take in the stunning views of the Bear Wallow Canyon gorge and Oak Creek. One of the best views you can get without having to hike.
- La Vecina: Visit La Vecina if you want large portions of Mexican food filled with flavor and spice. My go-to’s are the chile relleno and green chile tamales. Be prepared to have leftovers.
Once you’ve had your fill of the southwest, head toward the border of Arizona and Utah, and check yourself into Upper Canvas at Lake Powell. We arrived close to 10 p.m., which was well after check-in, but the staff was incredibly helpful – meeting us with golf-carts to haul our luggage to our tent. The company allows guests to communicate via text message, which was crucial in our arrival plans; it also helped when we needed small things, like assistance with our vintage furnace, and adjusting our shower’s water temperature.
According to their website, “Under Canvas began in 2012 with a camp in West Yellowstone, dedicated to connecting guests with the outdoors and each other through experiences in nature.” While I must admit, I have felt more connected to nature in cheaper ways, glamping certainly provides a comfortability that is hard to find with a two-person tent. If you want all of the amenities a hotel can provide with the illusion of, “roughing it,” Under Canvas accommodates beyond your imagination.
Not only is the safari-styled tenting a refreshing sight to feast your eyes upon, the native-inspired interior design transports you to a time and place that feels outside of our modern day, even while cornhole is being played, and Aviator Nation is sold.
The surrounding area quite literally goes on forever, as the site is situated on a plateau above Glen Canyon. If you’re up for it, you can hike down into Elephant Slot Canyon to look for diverse rocks, foliage, and wild life on this 1-mile roundtrip trek. If the weather gets to be too much for you, there are board games in the common area, as well as food and drink. My favorite aspect was the evening s’mores bar – so satisfying to sit next to a fire pit after a long day hiking in the desert.
If you’re a foodie, fret-not, for the restaurant serves more than your typical camp food. Some of my favorite dishes include the pork verde stew, a spicy treat with tomatillo and cotija, as well as the fried pickle spears, and burrata. Definitely do not forget to start your morning sipping on the Dusty Trail Latte with rosemary-infused brown sugar, especially if you’re going to hit Antelope/X Canyon, the reservoir, and various other stops in this endless desert.
It was recommended we stray from Antelope Canyon and book a tour through X Canyon with Taadidiin Tours, in order to stay away from giant crowds. Because Taadidiin is the only company that takes you through Antelope X, our tour group consisted of ten, including the guide. To be honest, this still felt a little claustrophobic in some areas. Since Antelope Canyon is widely known, many tours can book up to 24 people, with multiple groups being led at the same time. Another way to beat the crowds is to visit off-season. We visited right before school let out for most of the United States, so we (thankfully) beat the vacationers. A huge shoutout to our guide, Nick, for being a useful source of education and comedy, as well as a great photographer; he really made our experience special. Expect to pay $65/person on top of a tip to both van driver and guide. There is also merch for sale on the property, if you want to commemorate the experience.
After exploring your slot canyon of choice, you must take a drive down to Horseshoe Bend. Words and photos will never evoke the feeling of awe I had standing 1,000 ft. over this natural wonder. If you do one thing in your time in the northernmost part of Arizona, please make it this. Entrance to nature’s incised meander is free if you walk in, but parking will cost $10. From the parking lot, it’s about a 1.5 mile walk to the view point. I highly recommend bringing a blanket and a bottle of wine to watch the sunset into the canyon. The warm colors of the evening sky reflecting against the mossy Colorado River was a dazzling sight I will cherish forever.
Lastly, if you have time, make your way to The Chains for a nice swim in Lake Powell. From the parking lot, you’ll head toward the Glen Canyon dam on your left, and continue downhill until you’ve reached the water. This trek is a bit sketchy, as the smooth rock makes it hard to grip in some areas, and the path looks as though it leads to a sheer plummet in others, but trust the process – you’ll be swimming in no time. If you’re not in great hiking shape, I recommend finding another entrance to the lake. Also, there are no life guards around, so swim with caution!
This is another great place to bring wine and snacks to picnic at, though, if you pack it in, you must pack it out. Respect the nature and the locals (this goes for literally everywhere on planet earth).
Thank you so much for taking the time to read this! I hope you were inspired to plan your own trip. Feel free to reach out via huangbaum@gmail.com with any questions or comments.
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