GET YOUR COSTA FREAKA ON

Sometimes, when life hands you lemons, you have to use your flight benefits to take yourself and your best friend to a country you both have never been to. This year, our lemons got zesty in Costa Rica.

Though our time abroad was a short-lived three days, we certainly made ample use of our stay on the west side of the country. I recommend staying southwest if you’re looking for a more tropical destination. The more inland/eastward you travel, the more lush your typography becomes, shrouding you in peaks and clouds.

Costa Rica is massive: boasting six different types of tropical forests, covering half of its landmass, as well as hundreds of beaches and mountains. That being said, renting a car is your best option for traveling to-and-fro. We did not do this (lol). You can find a detailed look into our itinerary below.

DAY ONE

Traveling from Honolulu to the other side of the globe is not an easy feat – you leave right around your bed time and arrive (sleep-deprived) as the day is starting for most. The only viable option is to full-send into something that lasts until it’s time to check-in to your stay. As aforementioned, we did not rent a car, so we were looking for convenience, time, and fun. You can find this trifecta packaged in a tour with La Leona Waterfall Adventure Hike. Everything was seamless from our pick-up at the airport to our drive to the waterfall to being driven to our Airbnb in Playa Flamingo (1.5 hours away). The company can be contacted via WhatsApp or email, and they are prompt at responding. We never had to wait more than a few hours to get answers to our questions.

Because we required transportation directly to our stay, we opted into a private tour of the waterfall. I highly recommend doing this, as you will have your own tour guide and not have to stick with a larger group of strangers. For two people, we ended up spending $346.50, not including tips to our guide and van driver. The tour we booked included a white water tubing adventure after finishing the waterfall hike, but you can also book each separately.

The La Leona hike takes about an hour to reach the falls. I would rate this as beginner friendly, due to the flat nature of the walk, and the guides’ proficiency at helping in slippery/rocky areas. You will not be climbing more than a couple of small sections, all of which include ladders or rope to assist. You will also have the chance to cliff jump, swim, and take plenty of photos.

After the two hour roundtrip hike, we were driven to our tubes, about a (very bumpy) mile downhill. The guides help assist you through the flowing water, but I recommend grabbing a paddle, even though they’re optional, to help the guides. It’s a lot of work for them to follow behind and help maneuver the tubes over rocks. To be honest, I assumed this was going to be a lazy river we could float on for a couple of hours; I was wrong. The arm workout was insane and we ended up being very sore the next day. I wouldn’t do this section again.

The two tours covered four hours of our day, and then the van ride into Playa Flamingo took another hour, which got us in a little after our check-in time. We booked this quaint accommodation, just five minutes walking from the beach.

If no one has warned you, Costa Rica is home to over 120,000 American immigrants, which means so much of what is available seems entirely catered to us. For instance, there was a Margaritaville resort across the street from our stay. This also means the economy exists on pricing central to our tourism. You’ll be paying the same prices you pay in most major US cities. Please be respectful of the locals and remember, you’re not in America: stay in your lane.

For dinner, we chose a place nearby called Angelina’s, but only because the lively nature of the Monday Night Market we stumbled upon. According to our server, the night market occurs weekly, and features locally made goods, including clothes, jewelry, and food. Because we were sleep deprived and exhausted, we chose to breeze through the market to sit in the restaurant, but I do have to admit, I wish we would have taken more time to find a local treasure.

Angelina’s was nothing to write home about. If I could replay the night, I’d pay for an Uber to a higher rated restaurant nearby. The most appealing aspect was the giant pizza oven; it’s always a treat getting to watch a pizza chef work their magic.

I opted for a glass of the Las Perdices Malbec, which paired nicely with my slow-roasted veal ragu (the wine was the best part of the whole meal). My friend ordered the summer pizza with pesto, cherry tomatoes, and mushroom, as well as a margarita – also mid. Our overall bill was a little over $100 USD.

DAY TWO

The best adventures are usually unplanned, and our second day in CR could not be more indicative of this. After our dinner the previous night, we walked past an unassuming booth with a sign that read, “half-off tour for first booking of the night.” I’m cheap as hell, so we had to pump the brakes to our Airbnb and stop to chat with the woman manning the booth.

We quickly learned that Erin’s company, Pura Vida Watersport, was about a month old, which was why she was running the promo. Most private tours in Costa Rica are nearly $1K, so when we were quoted ~$300, our jaws hit the floor. After signing up, we agreed on a meeting location and time for the next morning. Erin was super flexible, letting us choose a time, as most tours begin early.

At 8:30 the next day, she picked us up in her golf cart, and we were whisked away to the dock. Erin makes sure your time on the boat is comfortable, bringing snacks like fresh fruit, and pastries, as well as sodas, water, and juice. We also had the option to add an inflatable to our reservation, but the air pump broke, so we stuck to snorkeling the entire time, which was more than enough. Our boat captain helped guide us to some of the most magical spots to dive around, pointing out octopi and puffer fish below the surface. Our cups were so full.

One of the coolest spots we had the luxury of seeing was a little beach called Playa Mina, accessible via boat or off-roading adventure. This beautiful beach was hidden away from the human eye, and not a soul joined us, while we explored the area. If you’re up for a little hike, there is a short, half-mile trek to the top of the hill for stunning views of the ocean. Make sure to bring shoes with you, the ground is hot.

After Playa Mina, we stopped at a small isle in the middle of the ocean called Loros Island (Charango) – only accessible via swim. This cute isle was chock-full of beautiful seashells, which we learned are illegal to take out of the country.

Though our day should have ended here, Erin kindly asked if we wanted to continue the tour, because her captain wanted to get some more practice in. Who would turn down that offer?! So, after dropping Erin off to do work in Playa Flamingo, we were back out to sea toward the Catalina Islands (initially told we couldn’t go because of choppy conditions, but more on that later).

On the way to Catalina, we got to view the Dos Sombreros rock formation, as well as Elephant Rock, which looks exactly like an elephant taking a drink out of the Pacific Ocean:

After about twenty minutes of hauling toward Catalina, we made it just in time for sunset. This magical view is going to live rent free in my head for the rest of my life. And though the photos and videos are stunning, they will never do the reality any justice. You’ll just have to go and experience it yourself.

What I don’t recommend experiencing, is your boat almost capsizing, because the waves were to choppy to steer against. The minute the sun fell behind the horizon, we realized we had a long way back to shore and that our conditions had changed significantly. At one point, our anchor had come loose, and I had to take over steering as the captain braced against the hull to try and tie the anchor back onto the boat. We were all laughing, but also clenching our holes to the thought of swimming miles back to Playa Flamingo.

Thankfully, we made it back in one piece. To celebrate, our captain invited us onto a yacht and we partied all night to our survival. 100/10 experience. I highly recommend booking this tour.

DAY THREE

After waking up more sunburnt than either of us had anticipated, we were thankful our day was booked full of relaxation. Our good friend and flight attendant was working a trip into CR, and agreed to come pick us up for a spa day at Rio Negro Hot Springs. The thermal springs are a natural phenomenon, heated by the Rincon de la Vieja Volcano, just north of the attraction. A day pass is $35 USD, and gets you access to all 10 pools, as well as the locker rooms, volcanic clay masks, and the six waterfalls on site. I recommend starting with the waterfall hike, since it’s over a mile round-trip and requires a lot of energy, then ending with a soak in the thermal pools to ease your muscles. The entire property is a part of the Hotel Hacienda Guachipelin, which also hosts five different restaurants, yoga classes, and massage experiences. Guests have free access to the aforementioned activities, which is something to consider for your stay. The park is far away from civilization, and a car is absolutely necessary should you choose to stay here.

After our spa day, we drove two hours back to Playa Flamingo and had a subpar dinner at JP’s Bar & Grill. JP moved to Costa Rica from New York in the 90’s after falling in love with the pura vida lifestyle. He was an excellent host, taking time to stop and chat with all patrons – the vibe alone is what I assume keeps his place afloat. The food, unfortunately, was catered towards tourism, so we weren’t able to branch out from burgers and fries. I will salute the house-made hot sauce with ghost pepper and scotch bonnet, though. We loved it so much we each bought a bottle to take back to the states.

HONORABLE MENTIONS

JW Marriott Guanacaste: This five-star resort is host to multiple restaurants, a massive pool, and access to Playa Mansita. An added plus is the free shuttle into Tamarindo, if you’re looking for nightlife.

Tamaonda Beachfront Restaurant: Right in the heart of Tamarindo, this beach club is an excellent place to watch the sunset. My favorite part of this beachfront restaurant were all the dogs we got to see – CR is very dog-friendly.

Restaurante La Palapa: Pull up a chair, grab a cheap cocktail, and enjoy the nightly fire spinning.

Hilton Garden Inn Guanacaste Airport: Located across the street from the airport, I highly recommend booking this for your last night, in order to ease the stress of traveling to the airport. Anything worth seeing in Costa Rica is going to be hours away from LIR, which can be a stressful journey to think about on go-home day. A night runs about $150USD. There is one restaurant on property with fresh seafood options, as well as casados tipicos (local favorites), like rice and beans with plantains.

Surf Box: A very trendy bar/restaurant in Playa Flamingo, overlooking the harbor. The interior reminded me of 1950’s Miami beach club, but the menu was anything but dated. I highly recommend heading in for brunch to try the massive burrito with house-made hot sauce, as well as the coffee milkshake.